Where to Go in Guatemala
For travelers, Guatemala represents an intriguing mix. It is a diverse country with landscape that ranges from lush tropical rainforest in the northern lowlands, where some of the most spectacular Mayan archaeological sites (including Tikal) are found, to the pineforested hills of the Highlands, which are home to Mayan communities that still wear their traditional weavings. Guatemala has around 21 different ethnic groups, such as the Cakchiquels, Mams, Quichés and Tzutujils speaking some 23 languages (21 of Mayan origin; the other two are Garifuna and Xinca).
While the country’s
political heart is found in the capital, Guatemala City, more attractive still is the former colonial capital, Antigua Guatemala, which is saturated with the ruins of old convents and churches and surrounded by majestic volcanoes – some still active – that are good for hiking and climbing. The Caribbean (with its fishing communities of Afro-Caribbean heritage) and Pacific coastlines offer good fishing, swimming and boating opportunities, as do the beautiful lakes of Atitlán and Izabal. Guatemala also has unspoiled tracts of virgin rainforest (protected in a network of national parks), spectacular waterfalls and underground caves (such as those in the Verapaz region).
For the purposes of this section, the country has been divided into seven regions: Central Guatemala, Petén, Verapaz Region, Caribbean Coast, Eastern Guatemala, Pacific Coast and the Highlands.
Central Guatemala
Those visitors from overseas not landing at the international airport at Flores (for connections to Tikal) land at la Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City. Other than being the primary urban center in the country, Guatemala City is ideally positioned for visitors wishing to make the short journey by road to la Antigua Guatemala, situated 45km (28 miles away).
Guatemala City
There were three attempts to establish a capital before Guatemala City was founded in 1775. The first colonial settlement, called Santiago de los Caballeros Guatemala, was built in 1524 by the conquistador Pedro de Alvarado close to the Cakchiquel settlement of Iximché (near the present day town of Tecpán – see Iximché under The Highlands section). After continuing battles with the Cakchiquel warriors, the capital was relocated in 1527 to the Almolonga Valley, near present-day San Miguel Escobar, between the volcanoes Agua and Fuego until an earthquake destroyed it in 1541. A third capital was then established just a few kilometers away on the present site of la Antigua Guatemala in the Panchoy Valley (see the Antigua section below). Established as the new city in 1543, it was decided to retain the name of Santiago while the former (second) capital was referred to as Ciudad Vieja, or Old City. The new capital grew in wealth, size and prestige, surviving a number of earthquakes until 1773, when it was hit by a huge earthquake and eventually abandoned. The capital moved to its present location while the former capital was thereafter known as la Antigua Guatemala or Old Guatemala.
The capital, Guatemala City lies at the edge of a plateau cut by deep ravines in the Valley of the Hermitage. Few colonial buildings remain but the old quarter, with its low colonial houses, is situated in the northern part of the city. The main plaza, Parque Central lies at its heart and is bordered by the National Palace, the Cathedral, the National Library and an arcade of shops. In the south of the city, close to the airport and the national racecourse, are Parque la Aurora, which contains the zoo, the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology and the Ixchel Museum, housing a good collection of handwoven textiles. Other museums with fine collections include the Popol Vuh Museum (a private collection of Mayan and Spanish colonial art) and the National Museum of Modern Art. Some of the most interesting religious buildings (mainly either neo-classical or Baroque) include the 17th-century Hermitage of El Carmen and the churches of La Merced, Santo Domingo, Santuario Expiatorio, Las Capuchinas, Santa Rosa and Capilla de Yurrita (built in the first half of the 20th century).
La Antigua Guatemala
The former capital (originally called Santiago de los Caballeros Guatemala), Antigua is situated southwest of Guatemala City, and was considered to be one of the most splendid cities in Central America before its partial destruction in the earthquake of 1773. Further devastation to many buildings was wreaked in the massive earthquake in 1976 and the town is now a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site. Despite the damage of countless earthquakes, floods and fires, Antigua is a beautiful place of multi-colored, single-story buildings, tropical gardens, plazas, fountains and cobbled streets. A popular tourist center, it has several good hotels, restaurants and bookshops with a fairly lively nightlife. Monuments, former palaces, convents and churches that have survived in varying degrees of intactness include the Main Square, Cathedral, Palace of the General Captains, University of San Carlos (containing the Museum of Colonial Art), and the churches of La Merced, Santa Clara, Las Capuchinas, La Recolección and San Francisco. The Casa Santa Domingo is a former convent that is now a smart hotel with two small but fine collections housed in the Colonial and Archaeological museums. The town is particularly busy at Easter time where locals and visitors flock to see the spectacular Easter processions when huge litters bearing religious icons are carried over carpets of flowers and colored sawdust. Antigua is also one of the main centers for Spanish-language schools in Guatemala.
Beyond Antigua
Just outside the town is a coffee plantation, which now houses the small but interesting Coffee Museum (Museo del Café) and Music Museum (Casa K’ojom). (K’ojom means music in the Cakchiquel language.) Three nearby volcanoes, Acatenango, Agua and Fuego, all offer incomparable views of the city and surrounding countryside. Santa María de Jesús is the starting point for climbing to the crater of the Agua Volcano. Two towns worth visiting for their fine crafts are Jocotenango (a center for ceramics, as well as the site of a lively fiesta held to celebrate the feast day of the Virgin of the Ascension on 15 August) and San Antonio Aguascalientes (for beautiful handwoven textiles). The Day of the Dead festival (on 1 November) is a celebrated ritual in Santiago Sacatepéguez when hundreds of multi-colored circular or hexagonal kites, made from bamboo or tissue paper (increasingly polyester or plastic) are flown in honor of the dead.
Petén
The vast tropical lowland jungles of the Petén department share borders with Belize to the east and Mexico to the north and west. It is home to most of the major Mayan sites in Guatemala and many visitors exploring the Mayan sites in all three countries tend to fly direct from either Mexico or Belize into the international airport at Flores. Most of the major Mayan sites are located in this department.
Flores
This former Mayan ceremonial center is built on an island in the middle of Lake Petén Itza. None of the Mayan structures survived the arrival of the conquistadors who built their main plaza, church and government building on the top of the hill in the center of the island. The town’s hotels, restaurants and shops are laid out below. A causeway connects Flores to the mainland town of Santa Elena, where the banks and main shops are located. Buses run throughout the day from both Santa Elena and Flores to Tikal, passing through the pleasant village of El Remate, which has a couple of lakeside restaurants, lodgings and language schools. Also accessible from Flores is the Cerro Cahuí Biosphere – a 600-hectare (1482-acre) nature reserve that contains cedar, sapodilla, indigo and mahogany trees, orchids and ferns as well as fauna such as white-tailed deer, armadillos, spider monkeys, hawks, parrots and toucans. From October to April, hundreds of migratory birds settle in the reserve.
Tikal
The spectacular Mayan ruins of Tikal (City of Voices) encompass vast pyramidal temples, ball courts, causeways, plazas and public buildings that extend over some 16 sq km (6 sq miles). While there are about 3000 known structures, many more lie buried under dense jungle vegetation. First occupied in about 800 BC, this great city was eventually abandoned around 1000 years later. Copies of some of the more elaborate friezes, stelae, sculptures and bas-reliefs are found in the Sylvanus Morley Museum, which is near the entrance. At least two days are recommended to see all of the archaeological sites. Visitors can stay in the park lodges, in Flores, Santa Elena or El Remate, and guided tours around the ruins can be arranged both for the evening and at sunrise. The site is located in the heart of Tikal National Park, where there are over 50,587 hectares (125,000 acres) of rare forest (kapoka, breadnut, mahogany and cedar) and tropical vegetation. Wildlife that can be seen there includes howler monkeys, tropical birds, reptiles, red coates, racoons and white-tailed deer. Tikal National Park is itself situated in the much larger Mayan Biosphere Reserve.
Other Mayan sites in north Petén
Several Mayan sites are currently under excavation, one of the most impressive of which is El Mirador, about 4km (2.5 miles) from the Mexican border. Also in the northern part of the department, Uaxactún (Eight Stones) shows how developed the Mayan civilization had become by the ninth century AD. Building E-VII-B was used for determining the precise dates of the equinoxes and the solstices. Ixlú was an important lake port, situated in between the Petén Itza and Salpetén lagoons. Further east, on the edge of the Yaxhá Lagoon, Yaxhá (Green Water) is an extensive Mayan site of terraces, plazas and causeways. North from here are the smaller sites of Nakum and Naranjo.
Sayaxché
This town in the southern part of the Petén department provides a good starting point for exploring other major Mayan sites. Ceibal, southeast of Sayaxché, has a small observatory that was designed to pinpoint the location of galaxies, planets and stars. It is also where some of the finest post-Classical stelae (AD 900 to 1523), carved with large anthropomorphous clay figures, were recovered. Other impressive stelae representing battle scenes were found at Dos Pilas. Southeast from here, the post-Classical site of Aguateca was once an important ceremonial center.
Verapaz Region
This region is made up of the two departments of Alta (high) and Baja (Low) Verapaz, which are located in the north-central part of Guatemala. While many of the towns and villages retain their folklore, traditional handcrafts and religious feast days, the region is also a prime destination for whitewater rafting, caving and other outdoor activities. As access may be difficult or remote, many of the national parks and rivers need to be visited with registered guides and 4-wheel drive vehicles, either arranged privately or as part of a package offered by tour operators.
Cobán
This is the capital of the Alta Verapaz department that, along with Antigua, produces some of the best coffee in Guatemala. Situated on the banks of the Cahabón River, the town’s colonial past is reflected in its architecture, such as that of the El Calvario church. It is also a center for the production of many fine silver handicrafts. Celebrations to mark the ancient Mayan feast of Paabanc are still held in Cobán and San Pedro Carchá to the east. Some of the region’s most colorful handwoven clothes can be seen in towns and villages such as Tactic, San Juan Chamelco and Lanquín.
One of the highlights of the region are the Semuc Champey Waterfalls, which are formed as the Cahabón River falls some 300m (985ft) across rocks and ledges. Around 10km (6 miles) further on, the river enters the Languin Caves, parts of which can be explored with a guide, either on foot or by boat. Some 200km (124 miles) from Cobán is the National Park of Lanchúa, which is a very humid, subtropical rainforest teeming with many species of mammals and amphibians. Visitors to the park will need a guide and full camping equipment. From the Lanchuá Lagoon, it is possible to take a boat to explore parts of the Caves of Candelaria. These ancient caves were considered sacred by the Maya and remnants of ceremonial altars and pots have been found here.
Salamá
The attractive departmental capital of Baja Verapaz is a good place to buy souvenirs handcrafted from silver, clay and leather. The nearby town of Purulhá is the location for the Mario Dary Rivera Nature Reserve, which was set up to protect the quetzal, Guatemala’s national bird and a symbol of liberty. Two walking trails cut through the cloudforest, where visitors can see about 50 different types of trees and a variety of tropical birds such as toucans, hummingbirds and macaws.
Caribbean Coast
Caribbean Guatemala is less developed than some other parts of the country in terms of tourism infrastructure. As a result, the villages along the coast, inland and around Lake Izabal, Guatemala’s largest, remain unspoiled. The coast has strong Afro-Caribbean influences as black Afro-Guatemalans known as Garífunas, the descendants of former African slaves who intermarried with the indigenous Maya, settled here. Caribbean traditions remain evident in the area’s music, festivals and cooking (in dishes such as tapado – made with fresh fish, coconut milk and green bananas). Sailing, fishing, swimming and scuba-diving are all popular activities and trips to the Belize Keys (such as the Cayos Sapodillas) are possible.
Puerto Barrios
The main port, Puerto Barrios is the capital of the Izabal department. It is a safe harbor for yachts and the starting point for trips up the inland waterways and rivers that crisscross the region. Southeast of Puerto Barrios is the remarkable UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site of Quiriguá. The Maya carved stelae and altars with intricate details that reveal much of their beliefs, animal deities, battles, the feats of their kings and cosmology. Stela E, at 11m high (36ft), is one of the tallest that has been recovered across the former Mayan Empire.
Livingston
Accessible from Puerto Barrios, this small town of brightly painted wooden houses and balconies is located in the jungle among coconut groves. Formerly the departure point for coffee farmed in the plantations of the Verapaz region, it still has a small fishing economy. Celebrations during Easter Week and on 12 December (Feast day of the Virgin of Guadalupe) are particularly colorful. From Livingston, boat trips can be taken along the Río Dulce, a jungle river that has its source in Lake Izabal and winds its way between steep cliffs and dense vegetation, through the lake of El Golfete, to flow into the Amatique Bay. Along the river, near Fronteras, is the fort of San Felipe, which was constructed by the Spanish in the 17th century as a defense against pirate attacks. The waterways of the river also pass through the mangrove swamps and lagoons of the Chocón Machacas Biosphere. This is a habitat for the endangered manatee (sea cow), which is Guatemala’s largest aquatic mammal. North of Livingston is the Siete Altares, a series of waterfalls and pools, which have been formed where the Río Dulce empties into the Caribbean.
Eastern Guatemala
Encompassing parts of the El Progreso, Zacapa, Jalapa, Chiquimula, Santa Rosa and Jutiapa departments, this is one of the most varied regions in the country – both geographically and culturally. Visitors can tour fine colonial churches, small local museums, coffee plantations and buy excellent handcrafted souvenirs while traveling through a changing landscape of subtropical forests, past volcanic peaks and sulphurous lakes.
El Progreso & Zacapa Departments
Two of the finest examples of 16th-century Baroque architecture can be found about 90km (56 miles) from Guatemala City in the parish churches of San Agustín Acasaguastlán and San Cristóbal Acasaguastlán in El Progreso. The departmental capital of Zacapa is well known for its distinctive handwoven cloth and for its small Museum of Paleontology, Archaeology and Geology. Nearby Estanzuela also has a Paleontology Museum.
Chiquimula & Jalapa Departments
The town of Esquipulas in the Chiquimula Department is one of the most significant in Central America. Second only in importance to the shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe outside Mexico City is the Basílica of Esquipulas with its Icon of the Black Christ that dates back to 1595. Pilgrims from all over Central America gather here on the feast day of 15 January. Esquipulas is also the seat of the Central American Parliament and, given its location just a short distance from the borders with Honduras and El Salvador, it has also been the place where several important peace agreements have been signed. Other attractions include the Franciscan Sanctuary, Belén Convent and colonial Little Bridge (Puente Chiquito). Montecristo National Park (the Tri-State Park) is located nearby and extends over the borders of all three countries. Over half of its 12,000 hectares (29,652 acres) of humid and subtropical forest are in Guatemala.
The villages, forests and mountains of Mataquescuintla are home to the Pocomam Indians who produce some outstanding textiles and ceramics. Under the Spanish Rural Tourism Plan, visitors can travel on horseback, by bicycle, on foot or by 4-wheel drive vehicle from Quetzaltepeque, through San Luis Jiltepeque to the attractive departmental capital of Jalapa, staying in family homes en route.
Santa Rosa Department
Located near Pueblo Nuevo Viñas and surrounded by mountains and forests is sulphurous Lake Ixpaco, which is the site of many springs that are believed to have healing properties. Northwest through a landscape of pine forests and low subtropical mountains is Ayarza Lagoon, also slightly sulphurous but with shoals of tilapias and mojarras.
Pacific Coast
The Pacific coastline stretches some 250km (155 miles) from the Mexican border in the west to the border with El Salvador to the east and includes parts of six administrative departments. The region is characterized by black volcanic sand beaches on the coast; mangrove swamps irrigated by numerous rivers behind and lush, subtropical forests further inland. Agriculture is the prime industry, with extensive coffee, sugar cane, cardamom, cotton and banana plantations. As well as enjoying watersports and swimming on the coast and exploring the rainforests and swamps with their unique habitats, visitors can tour several important Olmec archaeological sites.
San José
After Puerto Barrios on the Caribbean, San José is the country’s second-largest port, which is connected to Guatemala City in the north by Highway CA9 (more commonly known as the Pan American Highway). There are several seaside resorts on either side of San José where a variety of watersports are available. The waters here have abundant marine life (such as red snapper, tarpon, bass and sailfish) and the sea fishing is rated very highly. To the west, an interesting journey can be taken by launch from the old Spanish port of Iztapa through the Chiquimulilla Canal, which runs through mangrove swamps rich with plant life such as water lilies and irises. This canal is part of the Monterrico Nature Reserve, which was created to conserve coastal wildlife such as the green iguana, marine turtle and crocodile.
Escuintla Department
Guatemala has 33 volcanoes, three of which are still active. Although not the highest, one of the most dramatic is the Pacaya Volcano (2252m/7388ft), which is located about halfway between Guatemala City and Escuintla. During periods of activity, guided tours are organized to watch the eruptions and the lava flows. When inactive, an ascent of the volcano can be made by a marked route from San Francisco de Sales. Northwest of Escuintla are the sugarcane fields of Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa. The remains of great stone heads and other carved reliefs are dotted throughout the fields belonging to three fincas (plantations) – Bilbao, El Baúl and las Ilusiones. South from here is the site of La Democracia, which contains dramatic basalt sculptures of heads with closed eyes and furrowed brows.
Retalhuleu Department
North of Retalhuleu is El Asintal and the site of Abaj Takalik (‘standing stone’ in the Quiché language). This is one of the few sites that has remnants of terraces, carved stones, inscribed altars and calendars from two civilizations: the Mayan and the Olmec, who preceded the Mayas. A little further east in San Martín Zapotitlán is the Xocomil Aquatic Park – a theme park with pools and waterslides built around replica Mayan temples, palaces and sanctuaries.
The Highlands
Known in Spanish as El Altiplano, the highlands region is one of the most popular for visitors to Guatemala. The towns and villages there are inhabited by the greatest number of modern day, indigenous Mayan groups – many of whom still speak the languages and uphold the sacred rituals of their ancestors. Although this practice is gradually dying out, many of the villagers in more remote areas still wear traditional handwoven garments and market days or fiesta celebrations are the best times for visitors to appreciate their vibrant colors. While the main towns are connected with paved highways, some of the outlying villages are accessible only by 4-wheel vehicles. Tourism infrastructure, however, is developing all the time.
Huehuetenango
The departmental capital of Huehuetenango makes a good base for exploring as it has more accommodation options and facilities than some of the smaller villages surrounding it. To the west is the small post-Classical site of Zaculeu (White Land in the Quiché language). A number of tombs containing objects carved from pyrite and ceramic vessels have been found here. North of Huehuetenango is Chintla whose church contains the silver Virgin of La Candelaria, which draws many worshippers. A beautiful drive into the mountains further north in the region lies the isolated village of Todos Santos Cuchumatán. The men’s traditional costumes of high-necked red shirts, red and white-striped trousers, black capes and red fabric tied under straw hats are particularly smart. One of the best times to visit is during the annual fiesta between 31 October - 5 November. On the Day of the Dead (All Souls’ Day) on 1 November, a traditional horse race takes place in the village. Fuelled by quetzalteca (the local sugar cane spirit), the riders in traditional costume race up and down a dirt track at the far end of the village. The winner is the last man still on his horse.
Santa Cruz del Quiché
The Spanish used the carved stones from the ancient Mayan Quiché capital they had destroyed to build the church in Santa Cruz. The town has a good market but even more famous are the market days held every Thursday and Saturday in the small hill village of Chichicastenango, 19km (12 miles) to the south. Mayan traders from outlying villages spread their traditional food, cloth and wooden masks on stalls around the steps of the Church of St Thomas in a wonderfully colorful spectacle. Many others come to burn copal (incense) and pray on the church steps, combining ancient Mayan and Catholic rituals. On the south side of the main square, the Regional Museum houses a fine collection of jade and ceramic pieces and incense burners. Located on a hilltop above the town is the Mayan stone idol of Pascual Abaj.
Totonicapan
The regional capital, Totonicapán is a thriving industrial town. One of the best times to visit is during the week celebrating the feast days of San Miguel Arcangel (24-30 September) when traditional dances (morerías) are held here with descriptive titles such as Mexicans and The Deer and the Monkey. To the west is San Cristóbal Totonicapán, whose market day on Thursday is the best time to purchase outstanding ceramics. It is also an important center for textiles. Momostenango (City of Altars), in the north, is the center for traditional handwoven ponchos.
Quetzaltenango
After the capital, this is the second most important city in Guatemala, set amongst a group of high mountains and volcanoes. Although Quetzaltenago (often referred to as Xela) is quite modern, it also contains narrow colonial streets, broad avenues, fine public buildings such as the neoclassical City Hall, Municipal Theater and Natural History Museum, and a magnificent central plaza. It is also an important center for language schools. Other places to visit outside the city are the hot sulphur springs at Fuentes Georginas, Aguas Amargas and Los Vahos. Several picturesque towns include Salcajá with the 16th-century Church of San Jacinto, Zunil, dominated by the ornate façade of its church and one of the places where Maximón is still worshipped actively (see Santiago Atitlán below), San Andrés Xecul and San Francisco El Alto.
Solola
The road through Solola winds down to the beautiful, volcanic Lake Atitlán, much praised by Aldous Huxley, and is surrounded by purple highlands, olive-green mountains and three distinctive volcanoes – Tolimán, Atitlán and San Pedro. Although there are some small hotels around the edge of the lake, most visitors stay at Panajachel, the key tourist center with a long strip of guest houses, restaurants, bookshops, cafes and banks. Water-skiing, swimming and boating are all available on the lake, which is 19km (12 miles) in length and between 6.5km (4 miles) and 12km (7.5 miles) wide. Around the lake are several villages, each of whose inhabitants wear differently colored, densely embroidered clothes. Santiago Atitlán is the largest of these. Easter Week is famous for combining two traditions – the Catholic Easter procession and the rival procession conducted by the cofradía (religious brotherhood). Their idol is Maximón – a black-suited figure with a moustache that combines physical characteristics and attributes of St Simón, Mam (a Mayan god), Alvarado (the Guatemalan conquistador) and Judas Iscariot. Inside the church, a little Maximón figure is carved into the altar, as is a scene showing the feast day of the cofradía. Some of the women in Santiago still wear traditional headdresses that are made from long lengths of cloth wound repeatedly around the back of the head (a visual reference to Ixchel, the snake goddess of weaving). In San Antonio Palopó, the women weave on long rectangular backstrap looms. The men use the standing loom introduced by the Spanish and wear a type of wrap-around brown and white kilt. Both men and women in San Catarina Palopó wear shirts, huipiles (blouses), skirts and trousers embroidered with colorful geometric designs.
Chimaltenango
Northwest of Chimaltenango is the important fortified hilltop site of Iximché. Having conquered the Cakchiquel warriors, the Spanish conquistadors established their first capital near here in 1524. Today, there are well-preserved ruins of the former ball court, four main plazas and a temple. Almost on the border with the Quiché department is the site of Mixco Viejo (Pocomán), which was also a fortified city like Iximché. A shrine to San Simon (Maximón) is also found at San Andreas Iztapa.
While the country’s
For the purposes of this section, the country has been divided into seven regions: Central Guatemala, Petén, Verapaz Region, Caribbean Coast, Eastern Guatemala, Pacific Coast and the Highlands.
Central Guatemala
Those visitors from overseas not landing at the international airport at Flores (for connections to Tikal) land at la Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City. Other than being the primary urban center in the country, Guatemala City is ideally positioned for visitors wishing to make the short journey by road to la Antigua Guatemala, situated 45km (28 miles away).
Guatemala City
There were three attempts to establish a capital before Guatemala City was founded in 1775. The first colonial settlement, called Santiago de los Caballeros Guatemala, was built in 1524 by the conquistador Pedro de Alvarado close to the Cakchiquel settlement of Iximché (near the present day town of Tecpán – see Iximché under The Highlands section). After continuing battles with the Cakchiquel warriors, the capital was relocated in 1527 to the Almolonga Valley, near present-day San Miguel Escobar, between the volcanoes Agua and Fuego until an earthquake destroyed it in 1541. A third capital was then established just a few kilometers away on the present site of la Antigua Guatemala in the Panchoy Valley (see the Antigua section below). Established as the new city in 1543, it was decided to retain the name of Santiago while the former (second) capital was referred to as Ciudad Vieja, or Old City. The new capital grew in wealth, size and prestige, surviving a number of earthquakes until 1773, when it was hit by a huge earthquake and eventually abandoned. The capital moved to its present location while the former capital was thereafter known as la Antigua Guatemala or Old Guatemala.
The capital, Guatemala City lies at the edge of a plateau cut by deep ravines in the Valley of the Hermitage. Few colonial buildings remain but the old quarter, with its low colonial houses, is situated in the northern part of the city. The main plaza, Parque Central lies at its heart and is bordered by the National Palace, the Cathedral, the National Library and an arcade of shops. In the south of the city, close to the airport and the national racecourse, are Parque la Aurora, which contains the zoo, the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology and the Ixchel Museum, housing a good collection of handwoven textiles. Other museums with fine collections include the Popol Vuh Museum (a private collection of Mayan and Spanish colonial art) and the National Museum of Modern Art. Some of the most interesting religious buildings (mainly either neo-classical or Baroque) include the 17th-century Hermitage of El Carmen and the churches of La Merced, Santo Domingo, Santuario Expiatorio, Las Capuchinas, Santa Rosa and Capilla de Yurrita (built in the first half of the 20th century).
La Antigua Guatemala
The former capital (originally called Santiago de los Caballeros Guatemala), Antigua is situated southwest of Guatemala City, and was considered to be one of the most splendid cities in Central America before its partial destruction in the earthquake of 1773. Further devastation to many buildings was wreaked in the massive earthquake in 1976 and the town is now a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site. Despite the damage of countless earthquakes, floods and fires, Antigua is a beautiful place of multi-colored, single-story buildings, tropical gardens, plazas, fountains and cobbled streets. A popular tourist center, it has several good hotels, restaurants and bookshops with a fairly lively nightlife. Monuments, former palaces, convents and churches that have survived in varying degrees of intactness include the Main Square, Cathedral, Palace of the General Captains, University of San Carlos (containing the Museum of Colonial Art), and the churches of La Merced, Santa Clara, Las Capuchinas, La Recolección and San Francisco. The Casa Santa Domingo is a former convent that is now a smart hotel with two small but fine collections housed in the Colonial and Archaeological museums. The town is particularly busy at Easter time where locals and visitors flock to see the spectacular Easter processions when huge litters bearing religious icons are carried over carpets of flowers and colored sawdust. Antigua is also one of the main centers for Spanish-language schools in Guatemala.
Beyond Antigua
Just outside the town is a coffee plantation, which now houses the small but interesting Coffee Museum (Museo del Café) and Music Museum (Casa K’ojom). (K’ojom means music in the Cakchiquel language.) Three nearby volcanoes, Acatenango, Agua and Fuego, all offer incomparable views of the city and surrounding countryside. Santa María de Jesús is the starting point for climbing to the crater of the Agua Volcano. Two towns worth visiting for their fine crafts are Jocotenango (a center for ceramics, as well as the site of a lively fiesta held to celebrate the feast day of the Virgin of the Ascension on 15 August) and San Antonio Aguascalientes (for beautiful handwoven textiles). The Day of the Dead festival (on 1 November) is a celebrated ritual in Santiago Sacatepéguez when hundreds of multi-colored circular or hexagonal kites, made from bamboo or tissue paper (increasingly polyester or plastic) are flown in honor of the dead.
Petén
The vast tropical lowland jungles of the Petén department share borders with Belize to the east and Mexico to the north and west. It is home to most of the major Mayan sites in Guatemala and many visitors exploring the Mayan sites in all three countries tend to fly direct from either Mexico or Belize into the international airport at Flores. Most of the major Mayan sites are located in this department.
Flores
This former Mayan ceremonial center is built on an island in the middle of Lake Petén Itza. None of the Mayan structures survived the arrival of the conquistadors who built their main plaza, church and government building on the top of the hill in the center of the island. The town’s hotels, restaurants and shops are laid out below. A causeway connects Flores to the mainland town of Santa Elena, where the banks and main shops are located. Buses run throughout the day from both Santa Elena and Flores to Tikal, passing through the pleasant village of El Remate, which has a couple of lakeside restaurants, lodgings and language schools. Also accessible from Flores is the Cerro Cahuí Biosphere – a 600-hectare (1482-acre) nature reserve that contains cedar, sapodilla, indigo and mahogany trees, orchids and ferns as well as fauna such as white-tailed deer, armadillos, spider monkeys, hawks, parrots and toucans. From October to April, hundreds of migratory birds settle in the reserve.
Tikal
The spectacular Mayan ruins of Tikal (City of Voices) encompass vast pyramidal temples, ball courts, causeways, plazas and public buildings that extend over some 16 sq km (6 sq miles). While there are about 3000 known structures, many more lie buried under dense jungle vegetation. First occupied in about 800 BC, this great city was eventually abandoned around 1000 years later. Copies of some of the more elaborate friezes, stelae, sculptures and bas-reliefs are found in the Sylvanus Morley Museum, which is near the entrance. At least two days are recommended to see all of the archaeological sites. Visitors can stay in the park lodges, in Flores, Santa Elena or El Remate, and guided tours around the ruins can be arranged both for the evening and at sunrise. The site is located in the heart of Tikal National Park, where there are over 50,587 hectares (125,000 acres) of rare forest (kapoka, breadnut, mahogany and cedar) and tropical vegetation. Wildlife that can be seen there includes howler monkeys, tropical birds, reptiles, red coates, racoons and white-tailed deer. Tikal National Park is itself situated in the much larger Mayan Biosphere Reserve.
Other Mayan sites in north Petén
Several Mayan sites are currently under excavation, one of the most impressive of which is El Mirador, about 4km (2.5 miles) from the Mexican border. Also in the northern part of the department, Uaxactún (Eight Stones) shows how developed the Mayan civilization had become by the ninth century AD. Building E-VII-B was used for determining the precise dates of the equinoxes and the solstices. Ixlú was an important lake port, situated in between the Petén Itza and Salpetén lagoons. Further east, on the edge of the Yaxhá Lagoon, Yaxhá (Green Water) is an extensive Mayan site of terraces, plazas and causeways. North from here are the smaller sites of Nakum and Naranjo.
Sayaxché
This town in the southern part of the Petén department provides a good starting point for exploring other major Mayan sites. Ceibal, southeast of Sayaxché, has a small observatory that was designed to pinpoint the location of galaxies, planets and stars. It is also where some of the finest post-Classical stelae (AD 900 to 1523), carved with large anthropomorphous clay figures, were recovered. Other impressive stelae representing battle scenes were found at Dos Pilas. Southeast from here, the post-Classical site of Aguateca was once an important ceremonial center.
Verapaz Region
This region is made up of the two departments of Alta (high) and Baja (Low) Verapaz, which are located in the north-central part of Guatemala. While many of the towns and villages retain their folklore, traditional handcrafts and religious feast days, the region is also a prime destination for whitewater rafting, caving and other outdoor activities. As access may be difficult or remote, many of the national parks and rivers need to be visited with registered guides and 4-wheel drive vehicles, either arranged privately or as part of a package offered by tour operators.
Cobán
This is the capital of the Alta Verapaz department that, along with Antigua, produces some of the best coffee in Guatemala. Situated on the banks of the Cahabón River, the town’s colonial past is reflected in its architecture, such as that of the El Calvario church. It is also a center for the production of many fine silver handicrafts. Celebrations to mark the ancient Mayan feast of Paabanc are still held in Cobán and San Pedro Carchá to the east. Some of the region’s most colorful handwoven clothes can be seen in towns and villages such as Tactic, San Juan Chamelco and Lanquín.
One of the highlights of the region are the Semuc Champey Waterfalls, which are formed as the Cahabón River falls some 300m (985ft) across rocks and ledges. Around 10km (6 miles) further on, the river enters the Languin Caves, parts of which can be explored with a guide, either on foot or by boat. Some 200km (124 miles) from Cobán is the National Park of Lanchúa, which is a very humid, subtropical rainforest teeming with many species of mammals and amphibians. Visitors to the park will need a guide and full camping equipment. From the Lanchuá Lagoon, it is possible to take a boat to explore parts of the Caves of Candelaria. These ancient caves were considered sacred by the Maya and remnants of ceremonial altars and pots have been found here.
Salamá
The attractive departmental capital of Baja Verapaz is a good place to buy souvenirs handcrafted from silver, clay and leather. The nearby town of Purulhá is the location for the Mario Dary Rivera Nature Reserve, which was set up to protect the quetzal, Guatemala’s national bird and a symbol of liberty. Two walking trails cut through the cloudforest, where visitors can see about 50 different types of trees and a variety of tropical birds such as toucans, hummingbirds and macaws.
Caribbean Coast
Caribbean Guatemala is less developed than some other parts of the country in terms of tourism infrastructure. As a result, the villages along the coast, inland and around Lake Izabal, Guatemala’s largest, remain unspoiled. The coast has strong Afro-Caribbean influences as black Afro-Guatemalans known as Garífunas, the descendants of former African slaves who intermarried with the indigenous Maya, settled here. Caribbean traditions remain evident in the area’s music, festivals and cooking (in dishes such as tapado – made with fresh fish, coconut milk and green bananas). Sailing, fishing, swimming and scuba-diving are all popular activities and trips to the Belize Keys (such as the Cayos Sapodillas) are possible.
Puerto Barrios
The main port, Puerto Barrios is the capital of the Izabal department. It is a safe harbor for yachts and the starting point for trips up the inland waterways and rivers that crisscross the region. Southeast of Puerto Barrios is the remarkable UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site of Quiriguá. The Maya carved stelae and altars with intricate details that reveal much of their beliefs, animal deities, battles, the feats of their kings and cosmology. Stela E, at 11m high (36ft), is one of the tallest that has been recovered across the former Mayan Empire.
Livingston
Accessible from Puerto Barrios, this small town of brightly painted wooden houses and balconies is located in the jungle among coconut groves. Formerly the departure point for coffee farmed in the plantations of the Verapaz region, it still has a small fishing economy. Celebrations during Easter Week and on 12 December (Feast day of the Virgin of Guadalupe) are particularly colorful. From Livingston, boat trips can be taken along the Río Dulce, a jungle river that has its source in Lake Izabal and winds its way between steep cliffs and dense vegetation, through the lake of El Golfete, to flow into the Amatique Bay. Along the river, near Fronteras, is the fort of San Felipe, which was constructed by the Spanish in the 17th century as a defense against pirate attacks. The waterways of the river also pass through the mangrove swamps and lagoons of the Chocón Machacas Biosphere. This is a habitat for the endangered manatee (sea cow), which is Guatemala’s largest aquatic mammal. North of Livingston is the Siete Altares, a series of waterfalls and pools, which have been formed where the Río Dulce empties into the Caribbean.
Eastern Guatemala
Encompassing parts of the El Progreso, Zacapa, Jalapa, Chiquimula, Santa Rosa and Jutiapa departments, this is one of the most varied regions in the country – both geographically and culturally. Visitors can tour fine colonial churches, small local museums, coffee plantations and buy excellent handcrafted souvenirs while traveling through a changing landscape of subtropical forests, past volcanic peaks and sulphurous lakes.
El Progreso & Zacapa Departments
Two of the finest examples of 16th-century Baroque architecture can be found about 90km (56 miles) from Guatemala City in the parish churches of San Agustín Acasaguastlán and San Cristóbal Acasaguastlán in El Progreso. The departmental capital of Zacapa is well known for its distinctive handwoven cloth and for its small Museum of Paleontology, Archaeology and Geology. Nearby Estanzuela also has a Paleontology Museum.
Chiquimula & Jalapa Departments
The town of Esquipulas in the Chiquimula Department is one of the most significant in Central America. Second only in importance to the shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe outside Mexico City is the Basílica of Esquipulas with its Icon of the Black Christ that dates back to 1595. Pilgrims from all over Central America gather here on the feast day of 15 January. Esquipulas is also the seat of the Central American Parliament and, given its location just a short distance from the borders with Honduras and El Salvador, it has also been the place where several important peace agreements have been signed. Other attractions include the Franciscan Sanctuary, Belén Convent and colonial Little Bridge (Puente Chiquito). Montecristo National Park (the Tri-State Park) is located nearby and extends over the borders of all three countries. Over half of its 12,000 hectares (29,652 acres) of humid and subtropical forest are in Guatemala.
The villages, forests and mountains of Mataquescuintla are home to the Pocomam Indians who produce some outstanding textiles and ceramics. Under the Spanish Rural Tourism Plan, visitors can travel on horseback, by bicycle, on foot or by 4-wheel drive vehicle from Quetzaltepeque, through San Luis Jiltepeque to the attractive departmental capital of Jalapa, staying in family homes en route.
Santa Rosa Department
Located near Pueblo Nuevo Viñas and surrounded by mountains and forests is sulphurous Lake Ixpaco, which is the site of many springs that are believed to have healing properties. Northwest through a landscape of pine forests and low subtropical mountains is Ayarza Lagoon, also slightly sulphurous but with shoals of tilapias and mojarras.
Pacific Coast
The Pacific coastline stretches some 250km (155 miles) from the Mexican border in the west to the border with El Salvador to the east and includes parts of six administrative departments. The region is characterized by black volcanic sand beaches on the coast; mangrove swamps irrigated by numerous rivers behind and lush, subtropical forests further inland. Agriculture is the prime industry, with extensive coffee, sugar cane, cardamom, cotton and banana plantations. As well as enjoying watersports and swimming on the coast and exploring the rainforests and swamps with their unique habitats, visitors can tour several important Olmec archaeological sites.
San José
After Puerto Barrios on the Caribbean, San José is the country’s second-largest port, which is connected to Guatemala City in the north by Highway CA9 (more commonly known as the Pan American Highway). There are several seaside resorts on either side of San José where a variety of watersports are available. The waters here have abundant marine life (such as red snapper, tarpon, bass and sailfish) and the sea fishing is rated very highly. To the west, an interesting journey can be taken by launch from the old Spanish port of Iztapa through the Chiquimulilla Canal, which runs through mangrove swamps rich with plant life such as water lilies and irises. This canal is part of the Monterrico Nature Reserve, which was created to conserve coastal wildlife such as the green iguana, marine turtle and crocodile.
Escuintla Department
Guatemala has 33 volcanoes, three of which are still active. Although not the highest, one of the most dramatic is the Pacaya Volcano (2252m/7388ft), which is located about halfway between Guatemala City and Escuintla. During periods of activity, guided tours are organized to watch the eruptions and the lava flows. When inactive, an ascent of the volcano can be made by a marked route from San Francisco de Sales. Northwest of Escuintla are the sugarcane fields of Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa. The remains of great stone heads and other carved reliefs are dotted throughout the fields belonging to three fincas (plantations) – Bilbao, El Baúl and las Ilusiones. South from here is the site of La Democracia, which contains dramatic basalt sculptures of heads with closed eyes and furrowed brows.
Retalhuleu Department
North of Retalhuleu is El Asintal and the site of Abaj Takalik (‘standing stone’ in the Quiché language). This is one of the few sites that has remnants of terraces, carved stones, inscribed altars and calendars from two civilizations: the Mayan and the Olmec, who preceded the Mayas. A little further east in San Martín Zapotitlán is the Xocomil Aquatic Park – a theme park with pools and waterslides built around replica Mayan temples, palaces and sanctuaries.
The Highlands
Known in Spanish as El Altiplano, the highlands region is one of the most popular for visitors to Guatemala. The towns and villages there are inhabited by the greatest number of modern day, indigenous Mayan groups – many of whom still speak the languages and uphold the sacred rituals of their ancestors. Although this practice is gradually dying out, many of the villagers in more remote areas still wear traditional handwoven garments and market days or fiesta celebrations are the best times for visitors to appreciate their vibrant colors. While the main towns are connected with paved highways, some of the outlying villages are accessible only by 4-wheel vehicles. Tourism infrastructure, however, is developing all the time.
Huehuetenango
The departmental capital of Huehuetenango makes a good base for exploring as it has more accommodation options and facilities than some of the smaller villages surrounding it. To the west is the small post-Classical site of Zaculeu (White Land in the Quiché language). A number of tombs containing objects carved from pyrite and ceramic vessels have been found here. North of Huehuetenango is Chintla whose church contains the silver Virgin of La Candelaria, which draws many worshippers. A beautiful drive into the mountains further north in the region lies the isolated village of Todos Santos Cuchumatán. The men’s traditional costumes of high-necked red shirts, red and white-striped trousers, black capes and red fabric tied under straw hats are particularly smart. One of the best times to visit is during the annual fiesta between 31 October - 5 November. On the Day of the Dead (All Souls’ Day) on 1 November, a traditional horse race takes place in the village. Fuelled by quetzalteca (the local sugar cane spirit), the riders in traditional costume race up and down a dirt track at the far end of the village. The winner is the last man still on his horse.
Santa Cruz del Quiché
The Spanish used the carved stones from the ancient Mayan Quiché capital they had destroyed to build the church in Santa Cruz. The town has a good market but even more famous are the market days held every Thursday and Saturday in the small hill village of Chichicastenango, 19km (12 miles) to the south. Mayan traders from outlying villages spread their traditional food, cloth and wooden masks on stalls around the steps of the Church of St Thomas in a wonderfully colorful spectacle. Many others come to burn copal (incense) and pray on the church steps, combining ancient Mayan and Catholic rituals. On the south side of the main square, the Regional Museum houses a fine collection of jade and ceramic pieces and incense burners. Located on a hilltop above the town is the Mayan stone idol of Pascual Abaj.
Totonicapan
The regional capital, Totonicapán is a thriving industrial town. One of the best times to visit is during the week celebrating the feast days of San Miguel Arcangel (24-30 September) when traditional dances (morerías) are held here with descriptive titles such as Mexicans and The Deer and the Monkey. To the west is San Cristóbal Totonicapán, whose market day on Thursday is the best time to purchase outstanding ceramics. It is also an important center for textiles. Momostenango (City of Altars), in the north, is the center for traditional handwoven ponchos.
Quetzaltenango
After the capital, this is the second most important city in Guatemala, set amongst a group of high mountains and volcanoes. Although Quetzaltenago (often referred to as Xela) is quite modern, it also contains narrow colonial streets, broad avenues, fine public buildings such as the neoclassical City Hall, Municipal Theater and Natural History Museum, and a magnificent central plaza. It is also an important center for language schools. Other places to visit outside the city are the hot sulphur springs at Fuentes Georginas, Aguas Amargas and Los Vahos. Several picturesque towns include Salcajá with the 16th-century Church of San Jacinto, Zunil, dominated by the ornate façade of its church and one of the places where Maximón is still worshipped actively (see Santiago Atitlán below), San Andrés Xecul and San Francisco El Alto.
Solola
The road through Solola winds down to the beautiful, volcanic Lake Atitlán, much praised by Aldous Huxley, and is surrounded by purple highlands, olive-green mountains and three distinctive volcanoes – Tolimán, Atitlán and San Pedro. Although there are some small hotels around the edge of the lake, most visitors stay at Panajachel, the key tourist center with a long strip of guest houses, restaurants, bookshops, cafes and banks. Water-skiing, swimming and boating are all available on the lake, which is 19km (12 miles) in length and between 6.5km (4 miles) and 12km (7.5 miles) wide. Around the lake are several villages, each of whose inhabitants wear differently colored, densely embroidered clothes. Santiago Atitlán is the largest of these. Easter Week is famous for combining two traditions – the Catholic Easter procession and the rival procession conducted by the cofradía (religious brotherhood). Their idol is Maximón – a black-suited figure with a moustache that combines physical characteristics and attributes of St Simón, Mam (a Mayan god), Alvarado (the Guatemalan conquistador) and Judas Iscariot. Inside the church, a little Maximón figure is carved into the altar, as is a scene showing the feast day of the cofradía. Some of the women in Santiago still wear traditional headdresses that are made from long lengths of cloth wound repeatedly around the back of the head (a visual reference to Ixchel, the snake goddess of weaving). In San Antonio Palopó, the women weave on long rectangular backstrap looms. The men use the standing loom introduced by the Spanish and wear a type of wrap-around brown and white kilt. Both men and women in San Catarina Palopó wear shirts, huipiles (blouses), skirts and trousers embroidered with colorful geometric designs.
Chimaltenango
Northwest of Chimaltenango is the important fortified hilltop site of Iximché. Having conquered the Cakchiquel warriors, the Spanish conquistadors established their first capital near here in 1524. Today, there are well-preserved ruins of the former ball court, four main plazas and a temple. Almost on the border with the Quiché department is the site of Mixco Viejo (Pocomán), which was also a fortified city like Iximché. A shrine to San Simon (Maximón) is also found at San Andreas Iztapa.
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